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Practical tips and inspiration for horse lovers
On this page, you will find practical tips and inspiration for your horse's care and well-being, for relaxation and enjoyment, and for everything that makes daily life with your horse more fun.
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Fencing
Fencing, how exactly does that work? A fence of barbed wire, smooth wire, or mesh is unsuitable for horses because this method of fencing is inconspicuous and, above all, unsafe. It is well known that horses can break through a fence. Besides an increased risk of contracting diseases, a horse can also end up in a ditch or stray onto a railway track or road. If the horse then hits a car, the consequences can be disastrous. Only after such an impressive event does the importance of good fencing become clear. But what should you pay attention to, in terms of material, power, and posts? And how high should the tape be? We will list the ins and outs. How it works An electric fence consists of an electrical circuit through which the current moves. To make this possible, you use an energizer with proper grounding, a fence wire that carries the current, and insulators that prevent the current from leaking away. Step-by-step plan For a correct electric fence: Choose the right energizer, either a mains or battery-powered device. If a 220 Volt socket is available, a mains-powered device is always preferred. If you have horses grazing in a pasture where there is no 220 Volt socket connection, then a battery-powered energizer is the solution. Choose good earth posts of the correct length, because grounding is an indispensable basis of every electric fence. If more than 1 earth post is needed, they should be placed at least 3 meters apart. Please note that you generally need more earth posts in dry soil than in moist soil. You can measure/test the current with a voltmeter. Choose the right fence posts, for example plastic step-in posts, and place them approximately 5-8 meters apart. Make sure the fence tapes remain taut for the fence to function optimally. Hofman Animal Care has the right tensioners for tensioning the electric fence. In any case, place sturdy wooden corner posts. Choose the right conductor. There is a wide choice: cord, wire, or tape. For horses, we generally recommend tape, with recognizable signals such as flags or tape fringes, etc., in the first few days the horses are outside. This way, the horse sees the electric fence earlier and can get used to it and not break out. Place the fence tapes at different heights, preferably the first tape at 50 cm high and the second tape at 100 cm high. If we are dealing with larger horses, we also recommend using a tape at approximately 150 cm high. Invest in a good reel! This allows you to easily wind the fence tape on and off. Our reel for tape and wire can be easily worn over the head, so it's not such a tiring job physically. Ensure good tape connectors. This way, you can optimally connect the fence tapes to each other to maintain optimal current conductivity. The fence tapes are attached to the posts using insulators. We recommend a tape insulator so that you can tighten the fence afterwards. Everyone knows that tape stretches over time, and with ISOL004030, you have a perfect solution for this. For a fence, you will of course also need a gate handle for the passages. Easy opening and closing without power interruption. Attach gate handle anchors to the wooden posts at the pasture entrance to hook the gate handle. In short What do you need for a well-functioning electrical circuit:• An energizer that emits regular electrical pulses.• A fence wire that conducts the current.• Insulators that insulate the current from the posts.• Grounding that returns the current to the energizer. Which energizer best suits your pasture fence? The choice of an energizer depends on various factors.1. What is the length of the fence?2. Which animals do you want to fence?3. Vegetation on the fence?4. How much power should the energizer have?5. When choosing, consider future expansion plans.6. Choose a device with sufficient output of impulse energy ''Joule'' and a high voltage ''Volt'' upon contact with the fence. When there is a 220 Volt ''Socket'' connection nearby, this is the best solution and guarantee for a constant power supply, which possesses the most optimal deterrent properties. Basic concepts Output voltage in Volts Output voltage is the voltage measured at the output of the device. The voltage is needed to transport the energy. Since the fence is not yet connected, this number has no practical value. Voltage under load 500 Ohm in VoltsVoltage at 500 Ohm is the voltage on the fence upon contact with a human or animal. Charging energy in Joules This is the amount of energy that the energizer draws from the socket or battery. Impulse energy in Joules Impulse energy, also called discharge energy, is the impulse that the animal feels when it comes into contact with the fence. The higher the impulse energy, the stronger the shock. Grounding Grounding is extremely important. Good grounding accounts for 50% of the quality of the fence. The grounding ensures that the electrical circuit closes. This means that upon contact with the fence wire, the current flows through the animal into the ground and flows back via the earth post. If the grounding is insufficient, your fence will not function effectively. Grounding consists of special earth posts. If more than one earth post is needed, they should be placed at least three meters apart. The type of soil plays an important role in choosing the number of earth rods required. For example, dry soil has much poorer conductivity than moist soil. Conclusion More earth posts are needed in dry soil than in moist soil. Conductors The main artery of your fence is the current-conducting wire (light metal or stainless steel) which transports the current, offered in various thicknesses and qualities. Apart from the specific advantages of the different options (cord, tape or wire), the most important aspect is electrical conductivity. Frequently asked questions Which energizer should I use?If a mains connection is available, use a mains-powered device. Always power. If no mains connection is available, use a battery-powered device. Can the energizer be grounded to the mains grounding?No, that is not allowed. Install a separate grounding system. Where should I place the earth post?The earth post must be completely independent of the house or stable. The earth post must be at a distance of 10 meters from the house or stable. Never connect the earth post to water pipes! There is current on the earth post, this can be caused by:• Earth post is too short• Too few earth posts• Soil is too dry Good grounding is the heart of your pasture fence!Regardless of the power of an energizer, the installation is even more effective if good grounding is provided. How far apart should the earth posts be?At least 3 meters. Does my fence need to be a closed circuit?The current must flow in a circuit. Current flows via the tape, cord or wire to the animal or growing grass and back to the energizer via the earth rods (see "how electric fencing works" above). How can I check my electric fence for perfect operation?This can be easily checked with a digital voltmeter. If 4000 Volts (4kV) is read, everything is in order. What is the minimum current that should be on a good fence?A minimum of 4000 Volts. If it's not, first check the energizer, then the grounding system, and finally your fence. What is the lifespan of a 9 Volt battery?The lifespan depends on grounding, insulator quality, cord/tape/wire quality, and vegetation. If all of these are in order, the lifespan of a 9 Volt battery is typically 1 grazing season. How many meters apart should I place posts?For tape, every 4 to 5 meters. For cord, every 7 to 8 meters. Finally In any case, make sure the fence is rock solid! With good grounding, insulators, and fence tape, you not only keep your horses within the enclosure but also keep unwanted visitors out.
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Azoturia
Muscle stiffness, also known as tying-up and Monday morning disease, is a condition where there is a disturbance in muscle metabolism. Due to the excessive production of lactic acid in the muscle cells, the muscle cells can expand and compress blood vessels and muscles. If muscle cells are compressed for too long, they can die, after which waste products enter the bloodstream. This can lead to acidification primarily in the muscles of the hindquarters, loins, croup, and back muscles. Causes of muscle stiffness The most common cause of muscle stiffness in horses is that a horse receives too much concentrated feed in proportion to the amount of effort the horse needs to exert. This leads to an abnormal metabolism in the muscles. Overtraining when sick or in poor condition, overworking young horses, a disturbed electrolyte balance, dehydration, and a deficiency of vitamin E or selenium can also be causes of muscle stiffness. Symptoms of a horse with muscle stiffness In muscle stiffness, a distinction is made between mild, moderate, and severe muscle stiffness. With mild muscle stiffness, horses often stand with an arched back and walk stiffly in the hindquarters. Moderate muscle stiffness can cause horses to have a shortened stride, with muscles being stiff, swollen, and painful, and the hindquarters trembling. With severe muscle stiffness, horses often do not want to walk and sweat profusely. Anxiety, dilated nostrils, wanting to lie down, not wanting to get up, and an increased respiratory and heart rate also occur. Additionally, reddish-brown urine can result from the breakdown products of the muscles ending up in the urine. Treatment of a horse with muscle stiffness If symptoms of muscle stiffness occur, it is advisable to contact the vet immediately. The vet will take blood to determine if the horse has muscle stiffness and how severe it is. After the examination, a vet usually administers pain relief and anti-inflammatory drugs. Furthermore, treatment consists of rest. For example, do not force a horse with muscle stiffness to move and transport it as little as possible. You can also keep the horse warm under a blanket. In addition, dietary adjustments may be necessary. For example, work with your vet to create a diet plan. Recovery from muscle stiffness can take weeks to months. Sometimes a horse does not fully recover. Prevention To prevent muscle stiffness in horses, it is important to properly match your horse's nutritional needs to the expected effort. For example, less concentrated feed can be given during a period of rest. It is also important not to leave your horse in the stable all day and that the horse has access to sufficient roughage. Make sure that the energy value of the hay is not too high. Finally, a training schedule can be drawn up. A good warm-up and cool-down, for example, contribute to the removal of already produced lactic acid.
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Bloodworm in horses
The small strongyle, also known as Cyathostominea, is one of the most common types of worms in horses. These worms are about 0.5 to 3 centimeters long and are mainly seen in young horses up to three years old. A horse can also become infected with the large strongyle (Strongylus). This worm grows to between 1 and 5 centimeters long, but it is rare in the Netherlands. How does a horse get infected with strongyles? The life cycle of the large and small strongyle is largely similar:1. A horse becomes infected when it ingests the larvae of the red strongyle while grazing. 2. The larvae embed themselves in the mucous membrane of the cecum and large intestine and can overwinter there for several months. The larvae of the large strongyle can migrate further to the large arteries, where they can cause a lot of damage. They then return to the intestinal mucosa. 3. Once the larvae have become adult worms, they start producing eggs. Only uncapsulated worms excrete eggs. 4. Approximately five to six weeks after infection, the eggs are in the feces. This can take longer in winter.5. The feces containing the strongyle eggs then end up back in the pasture, after which the eggs can infect another horse. A horse can only become infected if the eggs have developed into larvae. If the larvae are not ingested by a horse, they can survive in the pasture for several months. Source: Corning S. Equine cyathostomins: a review of biology, clinical significance and therapy. Parasit Vectors. 2009; 2(Suppl 2): S1 Strongyles in horses - symptoms Strongyles in horses can cause various symptoms. In a mild infection, a horse may show no symptoms. The horse then appears healthy but can still infect other horses. Common symptoms include weight loss, reduced appetite, and a dull coat. Ataxia, fever due to an accompanying infection, diarrhea, anemia, and colic are also seen. A severe infection can be fatal for the horse or cause permanent damage. Permanent damage can lead to chronic colic, reduced performance, and difficulty maintaining the horse's weight. Controlling strongyles in horses To investigate whether the horse has strongyles, a fecal examination can be performed. This involves looking for worm eggs in the feces. The worm eggs of the large strongyle and small strongyle cannot be distinguished. Therefore, the total number of eggs is stated in the results. It is important to note that larvae can be encapsulated, meaning that even with a negative result, there is still a possibility that the horse is infected. When a horse is infected with strongyles, deworming treatment can be given. Depending on the severity of the infection, the type of veterinary medicinal product to be used may vary. Because a lot of resistance to the active substance is seen with deworming treatments, it is advisable to have a fecal examination done approximately two weeks after administering the deworming treatment. Preventing strongyles in horses To prevent strongyle infection, there are various measures you can take. You can try to keep the contamination of your pasture as low as possible by cleaning up manure (at least twice a week). In addition, you can regularly harrow the pasture, clean and disinfect the stable, use strip grazing, and perform periodic fecal examinations. This way, an incipient infection can be detected in time and further spread can be limited as much as possible.
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Biotin
Biotin is an essential B vitamin that plays an important role in the overall health of horses. Biotin has a positive effect on the production of keratin. Keratin proteins form the basis for the development of hooves, skin, and coat, among other things. In addition, biotin acts as a co-enzyme in the metabolism of carbohydrates, fats, and proteins, supports metabolism, and contributes to healthy skin, coat, and hoof growth. Where do horses get biotin from? Horses primarily get biotin through their diet, especially from grass and roughage. Foods such as oats, barley, soybean meal, rice bran, and molasses also contain biotin. Additionally, microorganisms in the last part of the gut can produce biotin themselves. In most cases, this production is sufficient for healthy growth of hooves, skin, and coat. Biotin is often added to feed as a supplement. An excess of biotin is excreted through the kidneys. A horse's hooves grow from the coronary band downwards. Biotin only strengthens newly formed hoof, skin, and hair material. Because a horse's hooves grow slowly, about three centimeters every six months, the effect of a biotin supplement often only becomes visible after a longer period. Biotin deficiency in horses A biotin deficiency can have various causes, such as insufficient grass and roughage, variations in biotin levels in hay, or reduced intestinal function. This can lead to a decrease in biotin absorption into the blood. Possible symptoms of a deficiency include: Reduced horn quality Abnormal hoof shape Reduced hoof growth Soft hooves Dull coat Reduced skin resistance Fatigue Reduced appetite Muscle pain The importance of healthy hooves in horses Healthy hooves are of great importance for the well-being of horses. A healthy hoof has a strong outer hoof layer, which is built up with the help of various nutrients. A deficiency of one or more of these nutrients can weaken the horn layer, which can lead to dehydration of the hooves. In addition to a balanced diet, hoof care is also essential. This includes timely trimming or shoeing and avoiding prolonged exposure to extreme dryness or moisture.
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Laminitis
Laminitis, also known as founder, is a common disease in horses and ponies. Laminitis involves inflammation between the coffin bone and the hoof wall. Because the inflammation has no outlet, a lot of pressure builds up in the hoof. This can cause heat and pain. The inflammation can weaken the connection between the coffin bone and the outer hoof capsule, causing the coffin bone to rotate and then push through the sole. Cause of Laminitis Laminitis in horses can have various causes. Certain conditions, including Equine Metabolic Syndrome and Cushing's, can increase susceptibility to laminitis. This is because these conditions often lead to insulin resistance and changes in sugar metabolism. Overweight can also disrupt sugar metabolism. Disturbances in hormone balance, for example, due to medication intake, can also be a cause. If there is a disease elsewhere in the body, the present bacteria can form toxins that are released into the bloodstream and then end up in the hoof. This can alter blood flow and lead to laminitis. Overload of hooves due to injuries, recovery from another hoof, or prolonged walking on a hard road can also be causes. Finally, fructan is a possible cause of laminitis. Fructan cannot be broken down by a horse's intestines. It is rapidly fermented in the intestines, releasing lactic acid. This acidification can kill beneficial bacteria, causing toxins to enter the blood. Symptoms of Laminitis Laminitis can be recognized by warm hooves, stiff movement, a thickened and painful coronary band, and sensitivity of the frog's apex. Other symptoms include relieving the hooves, lameness, restlessness, fever, sweating, and wanting to lie down a lot. A horse with laminitis may also stand with extended front legs and lean backward to relieve its front legs. If the horse is affected in all legs, they often position the front legs slightly back and the hind legs slightly forward to distribute their weight. Treatment of Laminitis If a horse has laminitis, it is important to contact the veterinarian immediately. The veterinarian often prescribes medications that relieve pain and reduce inflammation. In very severe cases, if the coffin bone sinks, rotates, and protrudes through the sole, laminitis can even lead to euthanasia. Therefore, if laminitis is suspected, it is wise to consult a veterinarian as soon as possible so that early action can be taken. Because laminitis is often caused by a metabolic disorder, it is important to identify the cause so that the correct treatment can be given. To determine the cause, the veterinarian can perform a blood test. The farrier can also be called in for an affected horse. The farrier can apply special shoeing that provides counter-pressure to the coffin bone, which can prevent further rotation of the coffin bone and relieve pain. Furthermore, it is important that a horse with laminitis is fed a simple diet. It is advisable not to put the horse in the pasture, as the sugars from the grass can be harmful. For example, you can put the horse on a sandy surface. Wetting the sand and rinsing the hooves with cold water can help cool the hooves and relieve pain. Always ensure a dry place where the horse can lie down. Preventing Laminitis There are several measures you can take to prevent laminitis in horses. When your horse is allowed back in the pasture, ensure a good transition from the stable to the pasture. This can be done, for example, by putting the horse in the pasture a little longer each day or by strip grazing. Try to avoid pastures with short grass, as this contains relatively high amounts of sugar. It is also wise to keep an eye on the fructan content. A helpful tool for this is the fructan index. This is an index that shows the fructan content based on current weather information. Several factors, such as grass type, fertilization, and amount of sun, influence the fructan content. It is important to consider these factors as well. Furthermore, it may be wise to be careful with sugary feed. A feeding plan adapted to your horse's needs can help with this. Finally, it is important to keep an eye on the afterbirth in mares that are foaling. If it is not visible within 4 hours, it is advisable to contact the veterinarian.
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Preventive measures in the fight against worm infections
Prevention is one of the most important pillars of equine worm management. Simply put: prevention is better than cure. There are many different preventive measures that horse owners can take to minimise the risk of worm infection. The aim of preventive measures is to reduce exposure to sources of infection as much as possible and/or to break the worm cycle as much as possible. Below are various preventive measures that can help prevent worm infections as much as possible. Removing manure from the pasture It's a time-consuming measure, but also one of the most effective: removing manure from the pasture. The more often, the better. By removing manure from the pasture, you are directly removing a significant portion of the eggs and any larvae present in the manure. This breaks the cycle. All eggs and/or larvae you remove from the pasture in this way can no longer develop into infectious larvae. However, it is important to realise that even if you remove manure daily, a worm infection can still occur in your pasture. These eggs and/or larvae can survive for quite a long time in your pasture. Removing manure from the pasture can be quite a chore. Of course, there are also all sorts of tools available that you can use to vacuum or sweep the manure from the pasture. Turning manure piles The bedding from your horse's stable and the manure you (perhaps) remove from the pasture end up on the manure heap. If you then use this manure to fertilise your pasture, it's good to pay some attention to it. You cannot simply do this without risk. The warmest part of the manure heap reaches temperatures above 40 degrees Celsius due to the rotting process taking place. Worm eggs and larvae cannot survive in such temperatures. The problem, however, is that the outside of the manure heap is much cooler, and that is precisely an ideal temperature for the eggs and larvae. If you then spread the contents of the manure heap over the pasture, all these eggs and larvae will end up on the pasture, and your horse will still be exposed to all these parasites. To kill all the eggs and larvae, the manure heap must therefore be turned occasionally, so that the eggs and larvae in the less hot places are also killed. Only then will the worm eggs and larvae in the less warm parts on the outside also be exposed to the heat inside the manure heap and be killed. If you have regularly turned the manure heap, you can spread the contents over the pasture. Dragging pastures A widely given piece of advice regarding the control of worm infections is the regular dragging of pastures where horses are kept. Especially if you do not remove manure from the pasture, it is important to drag the pasture regularly. Manure piles, after all, form a good environment for parasites to develop in and then crawl into the grass. Parasites love a moist, warm environment. By regularly dragging the pasture, you break up all manure piles, causing them to dry out and cool down. Therefore, drag the pasture primarily during dry periods (warm or cold). The conditions for worm eggs and/or larvae then become less favourable for survival. Do not drag the pasture during wet periods, as this could have a negative effect. Topping/Mowing pastures Another frequently given advice in the field of worm management and the control of worm infections is the regular topping/mowing of the pasture where horses are kept, especially the "toilet areas". Parasites thrive best in warm/moist conditions. They find these conditions in long grass. That long grass is also the ideal place for them to migrate to, as horses will eat it. In this way, the parasite enters the horse and can develop further. By topping/mowing the grass, you prevent it from getting too long, thereby making the conditions less attractive for the larvae and reducing the chance of the horse ingesting the larvae again while grazing. This disrupts the worm cycle. Unfortunately, regularly topping/mowing your pasture does not completely prevent a worm infection, but if you want to set up your worm management properly, regular topping/mowing should certainly be a part of it. And if you really want to give worms as little chance as possible, then preferably do it weekly, preferably in combination with dragging the pasture during dry periods. Haying pastures Not everyone has the opportunity to hay (part of) the pasture, but if it is possible, it is certainly recommended. To hay, the grass needs to grow long. Typically, you should count on about 8 weeks if you want to get a decent yield from it. Then it's a matter of waiting for a period of good weather that is long enough to get the hay off the land. Once the grass is mowed, it takes about a week before the bales can be pressed. During the week that the grass is "loose," it is turned daily. The weather is generally nice and dry, with warm temperatures. These are ideal conditions for the manure piles still on the land to dry out, exposing the worm eggs and larvae to the drought. These conditions are far from optimal for the parasites, and many will not survive. Regular turning also breaks up the manure piles nicely, causing them to dry out even further and exposing the worm eggs and larvae even more to the elements. Many larvae and/or eggs cannot withstand these conditions and will perish/die. When the bales are pressed, the pasture is essentially swept clean of all manure. These end up in the hay bales where the larvae/eggs cannot develop further and will perish/die. Rotational grazing Regularly rotating horses ensures that other preventive measures can be optimally effective. When the pasture is empty, it is important to remove manure and properly top and drag the pasture. Ideally, a round of hay is taken. In this way, you create the most unfavorable conditions for possible life stages of parasites in your pasture. In addition, regular rotational grazing can prevent horses from overgrazing the pasture and having to graze near areas where manure is deposited. These areas of the pasture have the highest risk of contamination. When rotating pastures, it is also important to ensure that the horses do not carry contamination to the new piece of pasture they are moved to. Prevention is, after all, better than cure. It is important to conduct fecal examination before horses are placed on a new piece of pasture so that measures can be taken if a worm infection is found. A common misconception is that a pasture is clean after it has rested for a winter. Unfortunately, this is not true. Almost all worm species can easily survive a Dutch winter. Often not as adult worms, but as eggs or in an intermediate host. When temperatures rise again in spring, these eggs will also start to develop again, and the worm's life cycle will simply continue. A pasture is only truly clean if no horses have grazed on it after plowing and reseeding. Strip Grazing In addition to regular rotational grazing, strip grazing can also be used to keep the infection pressure on the pasture as low as possible. By implementing strip grazing, you ensure that the horses always have fresh grass available, which prevents them from overgrazing the pasture and grazing close to the areas where manure is deposited. These areas of the pasture pose the greatest risk of worm infections. Additionally, you can ensure that other preventive measures can be optimally effective. In the strips from which the horses have moved, manure can be thoroughly removed, and the pasture can be properly topped (mowed) and dragged. In this way, you create the most unfavorable conditions for possible life stages of parasites in your pasture. Other grazers in the pasture Allowing other animals to graze the pasture can act as a kind of "vacuum cleaner" for existing worm infections. For example, by grazing sheep, goats, or cows, the infection pressure on a pasture can be reduced. However, it should be noted that these animals should not introduce another contamination to the pasture, such as liver fluke. Liver fluke can especially be a problem in wet pastures with ditches around them. If the pasture is infected with liver fluke, it can help to introduce Indian Runner ducks to eat the liver fluke snails. Regularly emptying the stable When it comes to preventive measures in equine worm management, many people quickly think of removing manure from the pasture, prophylactic deworming, dragging or topping the pasture, etc. Yet there is a very important potential source of worm infections that is not often considered: the stable itself! This was revealed in a study by Mc Girr et al. published in the Equine Veterinary Journal in September 2015. The experimental study specifically focused on the development of bloodworm larvae in straw stables. The study brought several important observations to light: Under certain circumstances, the stable can be the ideal breeding ground for worm eggs and larvae. Worm larvae love moist and warm environments. If you use bedding such as straw, chopped straw, flax, sawdust, or other natural products, it is quite possible that an ideal breeding ground for worm eggs and larvae will be created. If the bedding has been in place for longer than a week and manure balls and wet spots are not removed (very) regularly from the stable, you run the risk of a worm infection. If you don't have a deep litter stable, make sure to completely empty the stable every week and remove as many manure balls and wet spots as possible. If you do have a deep litter stable, it is equally important to remove wet spots and manure balls daily. Additionally, with a deep litter stable, it is extra important to ensure that no manure from a horse with a worm infection gets into the stable. And for that, it is, of course, essential to regularly conduct fecal examinations so that you have insight into any worm infections in your horse(s). Disinfecting stables Horses can also contract worm infections in the stable. The most common worm infections contracted in the stable are roundworms and threadworms, but bloodworms can also develop further in the stable under the right conditions. For general stable hygiene and to prevent potential worm infections, it is very sensible to thoroughly clean the stable occasionally. In that case, empty the stable well and spray it clean with a high-pressure washer. After regular cleaning, the stable can be disinfected with an animal housing product (e.g., Halamid). After this, the stable must dry thoroughly before new bedding is added. Use of herbal mixes, among others Various herbal mixes are available on the market, aimed at controlling worm infections. Unfortunately, these products are sometimes mistaken for dewormers. Most of these herbal mixes will promote the horse's resistance, making the horse (possibly) less susceptible to worm infections. There are a number of things you should keep in mind when using these herbal remedies: Even when using herbal remedies, it is important to monitor your horse closely through regular fecal examination. The use of a herbal mix does not mean that your horse cannot contract a worm infection. Herbal mixes support your horse's resistance. For an existing worm infection, it has not been shown that a herbal remedy is an alternative to regular dewormers. Source: HippoSupport faecal examination
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Mud fever in a horse
The wet autumn and winter days are approaching again, which means a greater chance of mud fever. Mud fever is a common skin inflammation in horses, usually occurring in the pastern, but it can also develop higher up on the leg. What are the causes of mud fever in a horse? A common cause of mud fever is moisture and dirt in combination with bacteria and fungi, leading to a bacterial skin infection. Normally, the skin is protected from these bacteria by a natural barrier. However, contact with too much moisture or dirt, or a weakened immune system, can deteriorate this barrier, allowing bacteria and fungi to damage the skin. Contact with moisture can be caused by wet pastures or stables, aqua training, and excessive washing. Another cause is that the horse is suffering from scabies mites. The mites cause itching, but can also burrow and dig into the skin. This can weaken the skin and create small wounds. These skin lesions make the skin more susceptible to infection. What are the symptoms of a horse with mud fever? A horse with mud fever can show various symptoms. Often, flakes, redness, scabs, and cracks (fissures or tears in the skin) are seen in the pastern of a horse. The pastern is a favorite spot for fungi and bacteria, among other things. Other symptoms include itching, pain, moist eczema in the pastern, skin thickening, a swollen (lower) leg, and lameness. Treating mud fever in horses There are various options for treating mud fever in a horse. Often, a disinfecting shampoo and mud fever ointment are used. Mud fever ointment is mainly used in the pastern and on the cannon bone. If mites are the cause of mud fever in a horse, a miticidal agent can be used. This can be obtained from the veterinarian. In addition, for every horse with mud fever, it is important to ensure a dry and clean environment. Moisture and dirt can hinder healing. If your horse's legs are wet, gently dry them with a clean, soft towel. For horses prone to mud fever, it is also advisable to limit the number of washes as much as possible. For horses that are lame, have a swollen leg, or where the above treatments are insufficient, mud fever ointment with antibiotics is also used. The mud fever ointment contains antibiotics and anti-inflammatories that help to soothe the skin. Mud fever ointment with antibiotics is only available on prescription from the veterinarian. With a horse that has mud fever, it is important to identify the cause, and if the symptoms worsen or do not go away, it is wise to contact the veterinarian.
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Vitasporal Sport
Vitasporal Sport provides optimal energy and supports the recovery of sport horses. As a rider, you want yourself and your horse to perform optimally during competitions. With the right support, you not only ensure that your horse has more energy during competitions but also recovers faster afterward. We specifically developed Vitasporal Sport for this purpose. Difference between Vitasporal Sport and Vitasporal Vitasporal Sport is similar to our well-known Vitasporal but has 2 distinct differences: Vitasporal Sport has a higher proportion of vitamin A and vitamin D3 to support your horse even better. Vitasporal Sport has a yellowish color instead of an orange/red color because this formula does not contain beta-carotene. Vitasporal Sport does not produce colored foam in your horse's mouth. Optimal energy through gradual release Vitasporal Sport, like Vitasporal, provides a gradual release of energy. Both products contain specific ingredients that ensure fast, medium, and slow energy release. This gives your horse extra energy for hours, in a consistent manner. Vitasporal Sport contains dextrose for fast energy release, vegetable oils for medium energy release, and vegetable fats for slow energy release. Additionally, it contains propylene glycol for a stable and even release of energy, helping to stabilize peaks and troughs in energy levels. Calcium chloride is important for muscle contraction and overall muscle health. It also supports against fatigue and muscle cramps. This can be schematically represented as follows: Optimal performance and recovery In addition to ingredients for energy release, Vitasporal Sport also contains various vitamins and an amino acid. Together, vitamin A, vitamin D3, niacinamide, vitamin E, vitamin B2, and lysine (HCL) support your horse's overall health, immune system, and muscle development. They also contribute to quick recovery after a competition.
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Colic in horses
Colic is a condition that every horse owner knows. Colic is a collective term for abdominal pain, which can have various causes. For example, a horse can suffer from gas colic, sand colic, spasmodic colic, or impaction colic. If colic is suspected, it is always advisable to contact the vet. The vet can assess whether it is necessary to visit immediately or if you can wait a little longer. You can also discuss whether it is wise to walk the horse and whether it is allowed to eat and drink; this depends on the cause of the colic. Based on the cause, a further treatment plan can be made. Gas Colic in Horses Gas colic is a result of gas accumulation in the intestines, which occurs when too much gas builds up in the large intestine. The large intestine produces excessive gas when sugars that have not been fully digested in the small intestine enter the large intestine. A major change in feed or a (partial) obstruction of the intestine can also be causes. There are several measures that can help prevent gas colic. Ensure a gradual transition when adjusting the feed ration, limit the intake of spring or autumn grass, feed small amounts several times a day, and have your horse's teeth checked regularly. Good teeth are the basis for good digestion. Sand Colic in Horses Sand colic in horses can arise from ingesting sand that accumulates in the digestive system. The irritation of the intestinal lining and the obstruction of the intestinal lumen can together lead to colic. Horses can ingest sand by, among other things, eating short grass, eating roughage from the ground, or deliberately eating sand. In case of sand colic, the vet can administer paraffin, for example. This is not absorbed by the body but has a laxative effect and can thus help to remove the sand. The vet can also recommend giving the horse a psyllium course. In some cases, surgery is necessary. To prevent sand colic, you can take various measures. If you feed the horse outside, do not place the hay on the ground, but for example, in a feeding trough. If the hay contains a lot of dust, you can immerse it in water before feeding. Additionally, you can give a monthly psyllium course if your horse ingests a lot of sand or is sensitive to sand colic. If your horse deliberately licks up sand, it is wise to check whether it is getting enough minerals. Spasmodic Colic in Horses Spasmodic colic occurs because the muscles in the intestines contract, causing (part of) the intestines to spasm. Various factors can cause this, including feed changes, stress, and worm infections. Sometimes the horse has eaten something wrong, which causes digestive upset. Impaction Colic in Horses Impaction colic can occur because the intestine is blocked with feed, for example, because a horse eats too much straw, drinks too little, or does not chew its feed properly. If the intestine is blocked, the manure cannot pass, which puts tension on the intestine and causes the horse pain. To prevent impaction colic, you can consider various factors. For example, ensure high-quality roughage, unlimited drinking water, sufficient exercise, gradual feed transitions, and regularly check the horse's manure. Colic in Horses - Symptoms The symptoms of colic differ per horse; one horse shows clearer signs than another. Common symptoms include: Fleming (curling the upper lip) Frequent yawning Pawwing or scraping with the front legs Looking back and kicking at the belly Lethargy Reduced appetite Regularly lying down and getting up Rolling or trying to roll Sweating Standing stretched out Increased heart rate and faster breathing
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5 tips for supporting your horse during autumn
The autumn season has started again, which means that the cold, wet, and dark days are upon us. This can also take some getting used to for horses. Consider the shedding period, reduced resistance, and spending more time in the stable. With the 5 tips in this article, you can support your horse during autumn. 1. Help your horse with shedding As the autumn and winter days approach, the summer coat makes way for a thick and insulating winter coat. This means the shedding period begins. The shedding period is determined by the amount of light, temperature, and breed. On average, the shedding period lasts two weeks. Although shedding costs a lot of energy, this is often not a problem for healthy horses. For weak and old horses, shedding costs more energy, causing this period to often last longer. To support your horse during this period, you can, for example, use Excellent Horse linseed oil. Linseed oil contains a high content of omega-3 fatty acids. This contributes to maintaining a healthy and shiny coat and is ideal for use during the shedding period. In addition, you can help your horse with the Grooming Brush to remove loose hairs. Brushing promotes good blood circulation in the skin, causing the coat to shed faster. 2. Support overall resistance Even in horses, resistance can be reduced at this time of year, for example, due to the shedding period, temperature fluctuations, and possible vitamin deficiencies. Vitamin deficiencies can arise from the transition from grass to hay. During the drying process from grass to hay, minerals and vitamins are lost, which results in reduced nutritional value. To support overall resistance, you can use Total Balance, Vitasporal, or Apple Cider Vinegar. These three supplements support your horse's resistance and condition. 3. Be careful with sand Acorns and leaves are falling from the trees again, the grass in the pastures is shorter, and many horses are spending (more) time in sand paddocks. This can cause horses to ingest more sand. A horse's intestines cannot process sand. Initially, sand can be expelled, but if more sand is ingested than the intestines can expel, it can accumulate. To remove sand from the intestines, you can use psyllium husks or psyllium seeds. Psyllium husks (the outer layers of psyllium seeds) should only be given over dry feed, while psyllium seeds can also be given through wet mash. Psyllium husks have a stronger water-absorbing capacity. Both psyllium husks and psyllium seeds form a gel-like mass in the intestines and bind accumulated sand to the faeces, so that it can then be excreted. 4. Water and salt The cold days can cause horses to drink less. Therefore, it is important to monitor whether your horse is drinking enough. Always ensure clean and fresh drinking water. A slightly heated drinking trough can also help. In addition, it is important that horses get enough salt and minerals. For example, you can offer the Excellent Horse Himalayan lick stone. This lick stone contains pure Himalayan salt, which is a source of various minerals and trace elements. Meeting your horse's salt needs can also stimulate water consumption. Ingesting enough minerals can also limit licking or eating sand. 5. Preventing boredom in the stable Due to wet autumn days, slippery paddocks and pastures, many horses are spending (longer) periods in the stable again. As a result, they often get less exercise and can become bored more quickly. To counteract boredom, you can, for example, hang the Excellent Horse Fun Play Ball or Fun & Flex in the stable. The elastic bands of the Fun Play Ball make it possible to attach carrots, hay, or other snacks to the ball. The Fun & Flex can also be filled with all kinds of treats such as hay and herbs. In addition, you can hang a Foodie Friend for your horse to play with.
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Vitasporal
Just like with humans, horses can experience an energy deficit. You can easily prevent or supplement these deficits with Excellent Vitasporal Paard, a complementary feed for horses.Vitasporal contains vegetable oils and fats, vitamins A, D, and E, and beta-carotene. The latter supports the horse's health and gives the product its specific red-orange color.Vitasporal is a palatable paste that is easily administered into the mouth with a convenient injector. Excellent Vitasporal Paard has been specially developed for a gradual release of energy. We can categorize this energy release into 3 different stages: Fast release. Medium release rate. Slow release. For each stage of energy release, there are specific components of Excellent Vitasporal Paard that act during that stage. For fast energy release, the active ingredient is dextrose. For the medium release rate, vegetable oils are used. For slow release, vegetable fats come into play. This is schematically represented as follows: Excellent Vitasporal Paard can offer support in various situations: Providing a quick boost after Vaccination Deworming Illness Support during foaling season Mare recovers faster after foaling Energy boost for pregnant and lactating mares Half an injector gives the foal an extra good start Competitions Doping-free energy boost Extra energy all day long No additional body heat generation with higher energy release in the horse Faster muscle recovery after exertion General use Energy boost for older horses For dull coat during shedding Every 4 weeks when the 'R' is in the month To support immunity Excellent Vitasporal Paard is supplied in a convenient injector that allows you to administer the paste directly into the horse's mouth. Thanks to its palatable taste (for horses), this paste is easily accepted by the horse. The main ingredients of Excellent Vitasporal Paard are vegetable oils and fats, vitamins A, D, and E, and beta-carotene. A brief explanation is provided below: Vegetable fats and oils are an important source of energy for horses. They also play a role in skin and coat health.They are also rich in unsaturated fatty acids, such as omega-3 and omega-6. These fatty acids are essential for heart and brain health. Vitamin A is important for eye, skin, and immune system health. Vitamin D plays a role in the absorption and utilization of calcium and phosphorus. This is crucial for bone and teeth health. Vitamin E is an antioxidant and helps protect healthy cells, remove waste products, and keep the horse's muscles healthy and supple.Vitamin E also helps in the removal of waste products that arise from muscle exertion (lactic acid).Vitamin E also supports skin health and the immune system. Beta-carotene is a precursor to vitamin A and is often added to horse feed for its antioxidant properties and red-orange color.It is naturally present in green leafy vegetables and carrots and can help improve skin and coat quality, resistance to infection, and eye health. All these positive properties make Excellent Vitasporal Paard a fantastic vitamin and energy boost for horses.A healthy pick-me-up for horses that could use some support! Let these properties convince you and order today!
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