Favourite products Zoë Coade/GetGoodWithHorses
Curious about Zoë Coade of GetGoodWithHorses' favorite Excellent Horse products? Zoë uses all sorts of products for her horses daily and is happy to share what she finds truly indispensable. From practical must-haves to fun extras that make everyday life with your horse even more enjoyable. Discover her personal selection below and be inspired by the products she trusts.
New products
Excellent Horse Foldable Bucket
Excellent Horse Parex Strong
Excellent Horse Fun Play Ball Suede
Excellent Horse Feed & Play Ball
Detangle & Shine Spray Gift Set
Excellent Horse Detangle & Shine Spray 500 ml
Excellent Horse Detangle & Shine Spray 50 ml
Excellent Horse Bit & Mouth Balm
Excellent for every horse
At Excellent Horse, everything revolves around your horse's well-being and performance. Our carefully curated range supports your horse daily, from care and relaxation to targeted extra support.
As a brand of Hofman Animal Care, we have been building reliable products for over 30 years, developed with knowledge, experience, and practical insights. Whether you ride for leisure or are active in sports, you will find products with us that suit every horse, at every level.
Our products are available through equestrian shops near you, so you can always get personal advice and find the best for your horse directly.
Latest news
Fencing
Fencing, how exactly does that work? A fence of barbed wire, smooth wire, or mesh is unsuitable for horses because this method of fencing is inconspicuous and, above all, unsafe. It is well known that horses can break through a fence. Besides an increased risk of contracting diseases, a horse can also end up in a ditch or stray onto a railway track or road. If the horse then hits a car, the consequences can be disastrous. Only after such an impressive event does the importance of good fencing become clear. But what should you pay attention to, in terms of material, power, and posts? And how high should the tape be? We will list the ins and outs. How it works An electric fence consists of an electrical circuit through which the current moves. To make this possible, you use an energizer with proper grounding, a fence wire that carries the current, and insulators that prevent the current from leaking away. Step-by-step plan For a correct electric fence: Choose the right energizer, either a mains or battery-powered device. If a 220 Volt socket is available, a mains-powered device is always preferred. If you have horses grazing in a pasture where there is no 220 Volt socket connection, then a battery-powered energizer is the solution. Choose good earth posts of the correct length, because grounding is an indispensable basis of every electric fence. If more than 1 earth post is needed, they should be placed at least 3 meters apart. Please note that you generally need more earth posts in dry soil than in moist soil. You can measure/test the current with a voltmeter. Choose the right fence posts, for example plastic step-in posts, and place them approximately 5-8 meters apart. Make sure the fence tapes remain taut for the fence to function optimally. Hofman Animal Care has the right tensioners for tensioning the electric fence. In any case, place sturdy wooden corner posts. Choose the right conductor. There is a wide choice: cord, wire, or tape. For horses, we generally recommend tape, with recognizable signals such as flags or tape fringes, etc., in the first few days the horses are outside. This way, the horse sees the electric fence earlier and can get used to it and not break out. Place the fence tapes at different heights, preferably the first tape at 50 cm high and the second tape at 100 cm high. If we are dealing with larger horses, we also recommend using a tape at approximately 150 cm high. Invest in a good reel! This allows you to easily wind the fence tape on and off. Our reel for tape and wire can be easily worn over the head, so it's not such a tiring job physically. Ensure good tape connectors. This way, you can optimally connect the fence tapes to each other to maintain optimal current conductivity. The fence tapes are attached to the posts using insulators. We recommend a tape insulator so that you can tighten the fence afterwards. Everyone knows that tape stretches over time, and with ISOL004030, you have a perfect solution for this. For a fence, you will of course also need a gate handle for the passages. Easy opening and closing without power interruption. Attach gate handle anchors to the wooden posts at the pasture entrance to hook the gate handle. In short What do you need for a well-functioning electrical circuit:• An energizer that emits regular electrical pulses.• A fence wire that conducts the current.• Insulators that insulate the current from the posts.• Grounding that returns the current to the energizer. Which energizer best suits your pasture fence? The choice of an energizer depends on various factors.1. What is the length of the fence?2. Which animals do you want to fence?3. Vegetation on the fence?4. How much power should the energizer have?5. When choosing, consider future expansion plans.6. Choose a device with sufficient output of impulse energy ''Joule'' and a high voltage ''Volt'' upon contact with the fence. When there is a 220 Volt ''Socket'' connection nearby, this is the best solution and guarantee for a constant power supply, which possesses the most optimal deterrent properties. Basic concepts Output voltage in Volts Output voltage is the voltage measured at the output of the device. The voltage is needed to transport the energy. Since the fence is not yet connected, this number has no practical value. Voltage under load 500 Ohm in VoltsVoltage at 500 Ohm is the voltage on the fence upon contact with a human or animal. Charging energy in Joules This is the amount of energy that the energizer draws from the socket or battery. Impulse energy in Joules Impulse energy, also called discharge energy, is the impulse that the animal feels when it comes into contact with the fence. The higher the impulse energy, the stronger the shock. Grounding Grounding is extremely important. Good grounding accounts for 50% of the quality of the fence. The grounding ensures that the electrical circuit closes. This means that upon contact with the fence wire, the current flows through the animal into the ground and flows back via the earth post. If the grounding is insufficient, your fence will not function effectively. Grounding consists of special earth posts. If more than one earth post is needed, they should be placed at least three meters apart. The type of soil plays an important role in choosing the number of earth rods required. For example, dry soil has much poorer conductivity than moist soil. Conclusion More earth posts are needed in dry soil than in moist soil. Conductors The main artery of your fence is the current-conducting wire (light metal or stainless steel) which transports the current, offered in various thicknesses and qualities. Apart from the specific advantages of the different options (cord, tape or wire), the most important aspect is electrical conductivity. Frequently asked questions Which energizer should I use?If a mains connection is available, use a mains-powered device. Always power. If no mains connection is available, use a battery-powered device. Can the energizer be grounded to the mains grounding?No, that is not allowed. Install a separate grounding system. Where should I place the earth post?The earth post must be completely independent of the house or stable. The earth post must be at a distance of 10 meters from the house or stable. Never connect the earth post to water pipes! There is current on the earth post, this can be caused by:• Earth post is too short• Too few earth posts• Soil is too dry Good grounding is the heart of your pasture fence!Regardless of the power of an energizer, the installation is even more effective if good grounding is provided. How far apart should the earth posts be?At least 3 meters. Does my fence need to be a closed circuit?The current must flow in a circuit. Current flows via the tape, cord or wire to the animal or growing grass and back to the energizer via the earth rods (see "how electric fencing works" above). How can I check my electric fence for perfect operation?This can be easily checked with a digital voltmeter. If 4000 Volts (4kV) is read, everything is in order. What is the minimum current that should be on a good fence?A minimum of 4000 Volts. If it's not, first check the energizer, then the grounding system, and finally your fence. What is the lifespan of a 9 Volt battery?The lifespan depends on grounding, insulator quality, cord/tape/wire quality, and vegetation. If all of these are in order, the lifespan of a 9 Volt battery is typically 1 grazing season. How many meters apart should I place posts?For tape, every 4 to 5 meters. For cord, every 7 to 8 meters. Finally In any case, make sure the fence is rock solid! With good grounding, insulators, and fence tape, you not only keep your horses within the enclosure but also keep unwanted visitors out.
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Azoturia
Muscle stiffness, also known as tying-up and Monday morning disease, is a condition where there is a disturbance in muscle metabolism. Due to the excessive production of lactic acid in the muscle cells, the muscle cells can expand and compress blood vessels and muscles. If muscle cells are compressed for too long, they can die, after which waste products enter the bloodstream. This can lead to acidification primarily in the muscles of the hindquarters, loins, croup, and back muscles. Causes of muscle stiffness The most common cause of muscle stiffness in horses is that a horse receives too much concentrated feed in proportion to the amount of effort the horse needs to exert. This leads to an abnormal metabolism in the muscles. Overtraining when sick or in poor condition, overworking young horses, a disturbed electrolyte balance, dehydration, and a deficiency of vitamin E or selenium can also be causes of muscle stiffness. Symptoms of a horse with muscle stiffness In muscle stiffness, a distinction is made between mild, moderate, and severe muscle stiffness. With mild muscle stiffness, horses often stand with an arched back and walk stiffly in the hindquarters. Moderate muscle stiffness can cause horses to have a shortened stride, with muscles being stiff, swollen, and painful, and the hindquarters trembling. With severe muscle stiffness, horses often do not want to walk and sweat profusely. Anxiety, dilated nostrils, wanting to lie down, not wanting to get up, and an increased respiratory and heart rate also occur. Additionally, reddish-brown urine can result from the breakdown products of the muscles ending up in the urine. Treatment of a horse with muscle stiffness If symptoms of muscle stiffness occur, it is advisable to contact the vet immediately. The vet will take blood to determine if the horse has muscle stiffness and how severe it is. After the examination, a vet usually administers pain relief and anti-inflammatory drugs. Furthermore, treatment consists of rest. For example, do not force a horse with muscle stiffness to move and transport it as little as possible. You can also keep the horse warm under a blanket. In addition, dietary adjustments may be necessary. For example, work with your vet to create a diet plan. Recovery from muscle stiffness can take weeks to months. Sometimes a horse does not fully recover. Prevention To prevent muscle stiffness in horses, it is important to properly match your horse's nutritional needs to the expected effort. For example, less concentrated feed can be given during a period of rest. It is also important not to leave your horse in the stable all day and that the horse has access to sufficient roughage. Make sure that the energy value of the hay is not too high. Finally, a training schedule can be drawn up. A good warm-up and cool-down, for example, contribute to the removal of already produced lactic acid.
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Bloodworm in horses
The small strongyle, also known as Cyathostominea, is one of the most common types of worms in horses. These worms are about 0.5 to 3 centimeters long and are mainly seen in young horses up to three years old. A horse can also become infected with the large strongyle (Strongylus). This worm grows to between 1 and 5 centimeters long, but it is rare in the Netherlands. How does a horse get infected with strongyles? The life cycle of the large and small strongyle is largely similar:1. A horse becomes infected when it ingests the larvae of the red strongyle while grazing. 2. The larvae embed themselves in the mucous membrane of the cecum and large intestine and can overwinter there for several months. The larvae of the large strongyle can migrate further to the large arteries, where they can cause a lot of damage. They then return to the intestinal mucosa. 3. Once the larvae have become adult worms, they start producing eggs. Only uncapsulated worms excrete eggs. 4. Approximately five to six weeks after infection, the eggs are in the feces. This can take longer in winter.5. The feces containing the strongyle eggs then end up back in the pasture, after which the eggs can infect another horse. A horse can only become infected if the eggs have developed into larvae. If the larvae are not ingested by a horse, they can survive in the pasture for several months. Source: Corning S. Equine cyathostomins: a review of biology, clinical significance and therapy. Parasit Vectors. 2009; 2(Suppl 2): S1 Strongyles in horses - symptoms Strongyles in horses can cause various symptoms. In a mild infection, a horse may show no symptoms. The horse then appears healthy but can still infect other horses. Common symptoms include weight loss, reduced appetite, and a dull coat. Ataxia, fever due to an accompanying infection, diarrhea, anemia, and colic are also seen. A severe infection can be fatal for the horse or cause permanent damage. Permanent damage can lead to chronic colic, reduced performance, and difficulty maintaining the horse's weight. Controlling strongyles in horses To investigate whether the horse has strongyles, a fecal examination can be performed. This involves looking for worm eggs in the feces. The worm eggs of the large strongyle and small strongyle cannot be distinguished. Therefore, the total number of eggs is stated in the results. It is important to note that larvae can be encapsulated, meaning that even with a negative result, there is still a possibility that the horse is infected. When a horse is infected with strongyles, deworming treatment can be given. Depending on the severity of the infection, the type of veterinary medicinal product to be used may vary. Because a lot of resistance to the active substance is seen with deworming treatments, it is advisable to have a fecal examination done approximately two weeks after administering the deworming treatment. Preventing strongyles in horses To prevent strongyle infection, there are various measures you can take. You can try to keep the contamination of your pasture as low as possible by cleaning up manure (at least twice a week). In addition, you can regularly harrow the pasture, clean and disinfect the stable, use strip grazing, and perform periodic fecal examinations. This way, an incipient infection can be detected in time and further spread can be limited as much as possible.
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Biotin
Biotin is an essential B vitamin that plays an important role in the overall health of horses. Biotin has a positive effect on the production of keratin. Keratin proteins form the basis for the development of hooves, skin, and coat, among other things. In addition, biotin acts as a co-enzyme in the metabolism of carbohydrates, fats, and proteins, supports metabolism, and contributes to healthy skin, coat, and hoof growth. Where do horses get biotin from? Horses primarily get biotin through their diet, especially from grass and roughage. Foods such as oats, barley, soybean meal, rice bran, and molasses also contain biotin. Additionally, microorganisms in the last part of the gut can produce biotin themselves. In most cases, this production is sufficient for healthy growth of hooves, skin, and coat. Biotin is often added to feed as a supplement. An excess of biotin is excreted through the kidneys. A horse's hooves grow from the coronary band downwards. Biotin only strengthens newly formed hoof, skin, and hair material. Because a horse's hooves grow slowly, about three centimeters every six months, the effect of a biotin supplement often only becomes visible after a longer period. Biotin deficiency in horses A biotin deficiency can have various causes, such as insufficient grass and roughage, variations in biotin levels in hay, or reduced intestinal function. This can lead to a decrease in biotin absorption into the blood. Possible symptoms of a deficiency include: Reduced horn quality Abnormal hoof shape Reduced hoof growth Soft hooves Dull coat Reduced skin resistance Fatigue Reduced appetite Muscle pain The importance of healthy hooves in horses Healthy hooves are of great importance for the well-being of horses. A healthy hoof has a strong outer hoof layer, which is built up with the help of various nutrients. A deficiency of one or more of these nutrients can weaken the horn layer, which can lead to dehydration of the hooves. In addition to a balanced diet, hoof care is also essential. This includes timely trimming or shoeing and avoiding prolonged exposure to extreme dryness or moisture.
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